MARCHE

Marche is the easternmost region in the central belt of Italy stretching from Tuscany through Umbria to the Adriatic coast. The first tracings of wine in Marche dates back to the Iron Age around Ascoli Piceno. Etruscan style agriculture thrived here before the Roman conquest of the third century B.C. The reputation of Verdicchio spread from the Roman lands beyond the Alps. In 410, Alaric, King of Visigoths, was passing through Marche on his way to besiege and conquer Rome, he reportedly ordered that 40 mules be loaded with barrels of Verdicchio to take along with him because he believed that the wine maintained and stimulated the strength of his soldiers.

Verdicchio started gaining attention in the 1950’s when Fazi-Battaglia devised the green amphora bottle with the scroll curled around its neck. Even if the wine was not memorable, the container was hard to forget. (Now about roman and war). Though the amphora bottle gained recognition for the wine, later it was responsible for the image of frivolity with which Verdicchio has been saddled. In the late 1970’s, sales began to slip and quality was soon improved. Verdicchio has an advantage over its competitors because it is a base for sparkling wines by both bottle and tank fermented methods.

Verdicchio is a varied species that seems to be derived from the Greco-Trebbiano family. Verdicchio Bianco and related clones are planted mainly in Castelli di Jesi and Matelica zones, which are the key wine zones. Verdicchio, though it dominates, covers less than 10% of Marche’s vineyards. The surface of Marche is 1/3 hilly and mountainous. There is a strip along the Adriatic that supports most of the vineyards. Castelli di Jesi and Matelica lie slightly apart from this strip. Sandy clay dominates in these areas, which are well suited to viticulture, though variations in rock, fossil, and mineral content account for differences in quality. The climate is reliable, though high slopes, usually covered by snow in winter, can be cool and damp. In the summer, the sunny mild Adriatic climate can be intruded by storms, hail or even drought.

Verdicchio di Castelli di Jesi (DOC) is west of Ancona along the Adriatic Sea. The first step of revival of Verdicchio in this zone was cool fermentation, which brought out more fragrances and fruit. Other producers are reducing yields and leaving Malvasia and Trebbiano out of the blend. Several producers have introduced Verdicchio from single vineyards or special cuvees, such as Santa Barbara Le Vaglie Verdicchio. Verdicchio can range from light crisp with faint greeninsh-yellow tones to full and richly textured with a golden hue. Alcohol may be held to 11%, but the fruit-acid balance seems better at 12-12.5%. To the nose Verdicchio may recall ripe apples or peaches and kiwi. The aromas do not strike you like those of a Reisling or Sauvignon but hang back like those of a Chardonnay. This characteristic has been referred to as aroma di bocca, because it is best expressed on the palate. Verdicchio can be aged in Yugoslavian oak, French barriques, and fermented and aged on the lees in small barrels.

The Verdicchio di Matelica (DOC) is further inland and at higher altitudes. This zone is much smaller and more isolated than Castelli di Jesi and produces only a fraction as much wine. Verdicchio from the two zones resemble each other, though Matelica version seems to yield more weight. Verdicchio from Matelica has a depth of flavor and staying power. It also has lower yields and better exposed hillside vineyards, which produces a fuller wine. These two zones dominate Verdicchio DOC production.

An improvement in quality in the two DOC zones in the 1990’s modified opinions of the grape’s potential. The wine acquired more roundness by the lower yields and high ph. Because of the natural acidity, Verdicchio was one of the first Italian spumantes. Bubbly Verdicchio remains an important part of the DOC production

In Marche the two outstanding red varieties are Sangiovese and Montepulciano to any of the white varieties grown. The two major DOC’s that employs these two red varieties are Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno. Rosso Conero obtained DOC in 1967. It originates on the slopes of the Conero massif south of Ancona. Rosso Conero is produced from Montepulciano along with a maximum of 15% of Sangiovese. This grape is considerably different from those used in the production of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Rosso Piceno is in the eastern part of the region. Rosso Piceno is produced from a minimum of 6% Sangiovese and maximum of 40% Montepulciano. Both of these wines were made to drink within 2 to 4 years, when they are round and fresh in flavor. Its also important to mention Rosso Piceno Superiore, which is a cru produced in a highly limited area in the province of Ascoli Piceno that is particularly noted for its fine grapes. The wine must be aged for one year in wooden barrels before it can be released for sale as a superiore.